Lets start with the Finished Result:

A Nice neat little setup tucked away in the basement.

Build your Own Inexpensive Spray Booth

For Ceramic Glazes or even paint

I found myself needing a better place to spray glazes on my pottery, since it gets hard to spray outside in Michigan, during the winter!  Last winter, in the basement, I used a cardboard box with my “vent a kiln” at the top to remove the fumes, it worked but it had a lot of limitations.

 

This spring I decided to look into something more permanent, more suction, more space and better lighting for spraying glazes.

 

I went to Home Depot and Lowes to look at shower stalls but all I found was these $300 and up one piece shower units. It would have been nice to find an old used one on somebody's front parking waiting for the trash man but that didn't happen so I needed another idea. $300 was more than I wanted to spend for shower stall, I was going to cut it in half anyway!

 

I looked at some used kitchen cabinets at the local resale shop, a corner cabinet with a lazy Susan caught my eye but I decided to search the web and see what I could find.

 

Ace Hardware has a simple little shower made by E.L. Mustee that comes broken down flat. A few different sizes are available, I went for the 32” by 32” at a cost of $99. Shipping was free if I pick it up at my local Ace Hardware, that saved me $40. (It turns out that there is enough left over plastic to build a second spray booth if you  purchase an extra shower bottom and build a wood frame for the top. Nice idea if you have a friend that needs a spray booth too.)

 

Start by finding a place to set your spray booth, you may need to build a table to hold it, I was able to place it on top a workbench I had already. I cut a hole thru the workbench top where the drain goes thru and set the shower base on top. Under the hole I put a bucket to collect dried up glaze for recycling.

 

The walls go up next but first you need to decide on how high you want your spray booth. I made mine 32” high so all four corners and three plastic walls had to be measured and cut. I used a regular battery powered circular saw with a wood blade to cut the plastic and it did a fine job. After you have them all cut to size, start assembling by taking a corner and pushing a wall into the slot provided for the wall, then add another corner and continue on until all the walls are up. Snap the top frame in place and get out the bag of screws to hold it all together. Holes are provided to put the screws into but since you cut the shower in half you also cut off some of the holes at the top or bottom and will need to drill some new ones to screw into. You will see what I mean when you get to this part of the job. Put your screws and bolts in place and move on.

 

Cut a piece of plywood to cover the top, drill some holes in it so you can screw it into the plastic and hold it in place. Before you attach it to the top you need to cut two openings for the exhaust fan ducting. I used  4” flexible venting found at any hardware store. I got mine at Home Depot along with a set of dryer connections to attach the flexible hose to the wood panel. Before screwing the top down and mounting the dryer vent connectors I also used some silicone caulking to help seal up any space. You can also get some furnace filter material, cut it down and attach it under your vent openings so you can catch the dust there instead of blowing it outside.

 

The vent was finished off with a 10 inch shutter fan I purchase on EBay for about $100. Since I didn't feel like going thru the cement block wall in the basement, I knocked out 4 glass block window sections and vented the spray booth outside from there. I had to make a wood frame in the opening, mount that to the window opening and then build a box to mount the shutter fan in.  On the back of the box I attached the two 4” vents.  Its pretty simple.

 

Then there is the electronics for the spray booth. If you have never worked with 110 volts, get some help! You need to run power to a switch to turn the fan on, also a light, and then run it to the fan. I used a three bulb halogen light that works pretty good, more would probably be even better, or maybe an extra light on the side. If you have the room, you might even want to look at a larger fan, they come in many sizes. The 10 inch model removes almost 600 CFM but the 12, 14 and larger models remove even more.

 

The best part is “spray booth cleanup”. The glazes I spray dry on the back wall and end up on the floor. All I have to do is scrape them off the wall and scrap the floor towards the drain. My bucket under the workbench catches the dried glaze, when I get enough saved up I can add water and test it as a scrap glaze.

 

I haven’t done it yet but I’m sure this would also work good for spray painting small stuff. I would think the walls & floor could be lined with newspaper to catch the overspray and thrown in the trash when done.

 

And if you’re not a very handyman type person, you can always buy a spray booth on EBay for about $600 and up.  If your like me you can build your own inexpensive spray booth.

To make this, start with the base on the workbench.

The Spray Booth Main Section finished

The vent system.

Down the Hatch

Glaze Cleanup

List of supplies needed:

Shower Stall                           $99

 Shutter Fan                            $100

4” by 8’ Duct (2)                    $20

Dryer connector (2)              $13

Hose clamps (4)                     $5

Fan Switch                              $5

Halogen light                          $30

Wood                                        $20

Misc wiring                             $20

 

Total cost                                 $312

Lindoo Pottery Works

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Purchase Glazes

Ann Arbor, Michigan 48105

 

rod@lindoopotteryworks.com

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